Waze Spitze (3533m) from Pitztal

Technical difficulty: 9/10
Fitness: 8/10
Objective danger: 8/10
Landscape: 10/10
Busy: 2/10

A true Tyrollean winter classic to the summit of Waze Spitze. Steep, technical, with beautiful views. Everything you need for a good adventure.

Starting point: Plangeroß
Ending point: Plangeroß
Ascend: 2000vm / 8h
Exposition: South-East/East (the final climbing ridge has southern exposure)

A high-alpine ski tour of the highest quality, over exceptionally beautiful skiing terrain. The finale, following the spectacular ascent through the hanging glacier on the partly exposed ridge, offers climbing up to the II difficulty level. A ski mountaineering adventure is guaranteed.

Route:
The first part of the ascent takes us along the summer path through a forest that is steep in places. With little snow or late in the spring, one must carry the skis here. After about 400 vertical meters, we reach open skiing terrain below the Plangeroßalm at an elevation of approximately 2000 meters. The route gently ascends towards a steep section, which we either bypass entirely on the left or overcome along the summer path. Above the steep section, we keep to the left and after another terrain step of approximately 400 vertical meters, we reach the Plangeroßferner glacier. The route continues flatly to the first steep rise of the hanging glacier. This area can already have short sections of bare ice late in the spring. After a short, flat basin, we reach a couloir with a slope of about 35° - 40° next to the upper part of the hanging glacier, which leads us to the uppermost glacier basin. Beware of crevasses! Through another steep couloir, we reach the ski depot at the col between the south and north peaks.

Now the climbing on the summit ridge begins. Initially, a few meters over boulders on the west side, then switching to the east side (slab UIAA II). Now for about 60-70m on the flank, no problem with step snow - good protrusions keep appearing from the snow. Then directly up to the ridge. Again climbing sections up to UIAA II. The last meters to the summit are straightforward.

Descend:

Descent as ascent. From the ski depot, in bad conditions, the first meters can also be rappelled (drilled rappel anchor + fixed slings).

Pro tip: Highly recommend staying overnight at the winter room of Kaunergrathütte before the tackling the summit. This makes it much easier to get down from the hard sections early enough and makes up for a nice adventure.

Photos by @the.running.nomad, @bennibru, @innsbruckalps and @max.kober